This time, we’re diving deep into the world of denim, uncovering the 10 key details that make this fabric so iconic. Denim is not just a material; it’s a symbol of ruggedness, craftsmanship, and timeless style. We hope this article helps you in your quest to find that ideal denim piece.
1. Selvedge Denim
When it comes to denim, the first term that often comes up is “selvedge.” But what exactly is selvedge denim? The term “selvedge” comes from “self-edge,” referring to the tightly woven band on the fabric’s edge that prevents it from unraveling. Selvedge denim is produced on old-fashioned shuttle looms, which are slower and narrower than modern looms, but they produce fabric of superior quality. The fabric edges are clean and self-finished, often featuring a colored line that runs along the outseam of the jeans. When you roll up the cuffs of selvedge denim, this line—commonly red, but also found in blue, yellow, silver, and other colors—becomes visible, adding a subtle yet distinct touch of craftsmanship to the garment.
Selvedge denim is highly regarded for its durability and the unique way it fades over time. Each pair of jeans develops a personal character, telling the story of the wearer. This autumn, we’ll be bringing more selvedge denim options online.
Lot 807 1930s Selvedge Denim Jeans:
2. Raw Denim
In the world of denim, you’ll often hear about raw denim, sometimes referred to as “dry denim.” Raw denim is untreated fabric, meaning it hasn’t been washed or distressed after being dyed. When you first buy raw denim, it’s stiff, dark, and often deep indigo in color. As you wear it, the denim gradually molds to your body, creating unique creases and fades. This process is highly valued by denim purists who appreciate the way raw denim evolves over time.
However, raw denim requires special attention. Because it hasn’t been pre-shrunk or treated, it tends to shrink after the first wash. When choosing raw denim, it’s essential to consider the shrinkage range, which can affect the fit. Some people even buy raw denim jeans one or two sizes larger to account for this shrinkage. Washed denim, on the other hand, has already undergone a washing process to soften the fabric and lighten the color, making it easier to wear from the start.
Lot 602 1969 Model Selvedge Denim Jeans:
3. Sanforization/Pre-shrunk
Sanforization is a term that might not be as well-known as selvedge or raw denim, but it’s equally important. Sanforization is a pre-shrinking process that was invented in the early 20th century by Sanford Lockwood Cluett. The process involves stretching, shrinking, and fixing the fabric before it’s cut and sewn into garments. This pre-shrinking helps minimize further shrinkage during the first few washes.
Most modern jeans are sanforized, meaning they won’t shrink significantly after you wash them. The choice between sanforized and unsanforized denim comes down to personal preference—whether you want the convenience of minimal shrinkage or the experience of creating a custom fit through the shrinking process.
4. Indigo Dyeing
Indigo dyeing is one of the oldest textile dyeing techniques, dating back thousands of years. Originally derived from the indigo plant, this deep blue dye has become synonymous with denim.
The beauty of indigo-dyed denim lies in its ability to age gracefully. High-friction areas, like the thighs, knees, and seat, gradually fade, creating a personalized pattern that tells the story of the wearer’s movements and habits. Whether it’s the deep, rich blue of new indigo denim or the soft, worn look of well-loved jeans, indigo dyeing is central to denim’s enduring appeal.
14.5 oz Selvedge Denim Rider Jeans:
5. Rope Dyeing
Rope dyeing is a specific technique used to dye denim yarns, and it’s considered one of the best methods for producing high-quality denim. In rope dyeing, multiple yarns are twisted together into long ropes before being repeatedly dipped in indigo dye. Between dips, the yarns are exposed to air, allowing the indigo to oxidize and develop its characteristic blue color.
This process results in uneven dye penetration, with the outer layers of the yarn being more heavily dyed than the inner layers. As the denim ages and the top layers of dye wear away, the inner, lighter layers begin to show through, creating the beautiful fades that denim enthusiasts love. Rope dyeing contributes to the deep, rich color of high-quality denim and enhances the fabric’s ability to develop unique, personalized fades over time.
6. Denim Weights
Denim weight is a crucial factor in determining how a pair of jeans will feel and perform. Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard, and it can range from lightweight (5-9 oz) to heavyweight (12-20 oz). Lightweight denim is soft, comfortable, and ideal for warmer weather. It drapes well and is easy to move in, making it a popular choice for summer wear.
Heavyweight denim, on the other hand, is thicker, stiffer, and more durable. It’s favored by those who need tough, long-lasting jeans, especially in colder climates. The extra weight provides added warmth and protection, making heavyweight denim a go-to choice for workwear and outdoor activities. Additionally, heavyweight denim tends to develop more pronounced fades and creases over time, giving it a rugged, well-worn look that many people appreciate.
7. Whiskering
Whiskering refers to the fine lines that appear around the crotch and thighs of jeans as they age. These lines form naturally over time due to the way the fabric folds and flexes in these areas. Whiskering is one of the key features that give denim its character and individuality.
Many modern jeans come with pre-whiskering, where manufacturers intentionally add these lines during the production process to give the jeans a worn-in look right off the shelf. While some purists prefer to let whiskering develop naturally, others appreciate the instant vintage appeal of pre-whiskered jeans. Either way, whiskering adds depth and personality to denim, making each pair unique.
8. Honeycombs
Honeycombs are another type of fade pattern that develops on denim over time, particularly behind the knees. As the fabric bends and flexes with movement, creases form and begin to fade, creating a honeycomb-like pattern. These fades are highly prized by denim enthusiasts because they contribute to the personalized aging of the jeans.
Just like whiskering, honeycombs can develop naturally over time, or they can be pre-faded by manufacturers to give the jeans a broken-in look. Honeycombs are a testament to the wear and tear that denim undergoes, and they add to the fabric’s unique character.
9. Denim Mills
The quality of denim fabric often depends on the mill where it’s produced. Some of the world’s most renowned denim mills are located in Japan, the USA, and Italy, each with its own history and expertise.
In Japan, mills like Kuroki, Kaihara, and Nihon Menpu are famous for their meticulous craftsmanship and high-quality selvedge denim. Japanese denim is known for its attention to detail, durability, and the unique character it develops over time. The craftsmanship of Japanese mills has earned them a reputation as leaders in the denim industry.
10. Five-Pocket Design of Jeans
The classic five-pocket design includes two front pockets, two back pockets, and a small coin pocket inside the right front pocket. This layout has been a defining characteristic of jeans for over a century, combining practicality with timeless style. The five-pocket design is essential for both functionality and the traditional aesthetic of denim.
15 oz Heavyweight Selvedge Denim Jeans:
